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UP THE ALTO PARANA - 1904 - Pág. 1

1 - Salida 2 - Posadas a Pto Aguirre
3 - Cataratas 4 - Regreso
5- Fotos de las cataratas

Este artículo tiene su propia historia. Cuando viajé a Ibicuy en compañia de Guillermo Berger en el 2005, le tomé unas fotos a un monumento a los muertos en la 1ª Guerra Mundial, que fue publicado en Histarmar. Esta foto fué vista por una sobrina de uno de los homenajeados -Lister Bolton Holt - , quien se comunicó conmigo y nos encontramos en Junio del 2007 durante un viaje que hizo ella a Buenos Aires. Su abuelo, Follet Holt fue Gerente General del Ferrocarril de Entre Ríos (Entre Rios Railway Co). Fuimos a ver el monumento y la estación Holt en Ibicuy, de la cual quedan aún restos. Prometió volver en Nov. del 2007 con su hermano y traer dos álbumes de fotografías de la construcción del FFCC de Entre Ríos.  Además esperamos tenerlos en Rosario también.

Una sorpresa que trajo fué copias de un diario de viaje, escrito por don F.H. Chevallier Boutell, sobre un viaje a las cataratas del Iguazú en Diciembre de 1904 y dirigido a la esposa de don Follet Holt. El autor no se nombra en ningun momento, solo da sus inciales FHCB, pero lo firma en la ultima pagina.

Lo he publicado aquí en su ingles original, pido disculpas a los que no lo leen, ya que su traducción demandaría mucho tiempo.

Explica como llegaron allí, por medio del vapor "TRITON" de Mihanovich hasta Concordia, Entre Rios; luego por tren hasta Monte Caseros, Paso de los Libres y Santo Tomé (Terminal de la linea Este y comienzo de la línea NorEste). En Santo Tomé tomaron dos carros, uno de 4 y otro de 2 ruedas y escoltados por soldados cruzaron en piragua (y los demas a nado!) el río Chiminay. LLegando a Apostoles les dieron caballos hasta Posadas, donde les perdieron sus equipajes - que recuperaron al regreso.

Abordaron el vapor "Salta" hasta Puerto Aguirre y finalmente, a caballo, a las cataratas por un corto periodo. El regreso fue a caballo, hasta el Salta nuevamente, a Corrientes ciudad y alli tomaron sus coches personales de tren cada uno para el regreso.

Un largo camino lleno de dificultades en ese tiempo, pero que les valio la pena. Las fotografias son de mala calidad, ya que son tomadas de fotocopias, pero espero tener copias digitalizadas de los originales en un futuro cercano.  La narracion es interesante, ya que muestra como se viajaba en esa época y es una buena comparacion con la expedicion de 1892 y los viajes de 1930/32.  Se ha publicado sin cambios en su redaccion . Carlos Mey

Up the alto Paraná - and a Day at the great Falls of the I-GUAZÚ

Diary of "ONE OF THE FOUR"   With New Year´s Greetings to the fair SEÑORA OF ONE OF THE BEST

1st January, 1905 

Buenos Aires, November 1904

TO THE IGUAZÚ FALLS.

The River Iguazú, which finds its origin in the mountains near the Atlantic Coast in the Brazilian Province of Paraná, runs, wriggling, due west until it hits the Alto Paraná at right angles, a little above latitude 26 by 55° , so that at its mouth it has Paraguay in front of it, Brazil on its northern and Argentina on its southern bank. About 15 miles before it takes the Alto Paraná, it comes with fair force against a steep bank on the Brazilian side  which gives it a set-back, or "broad sweep in a contrary direction, spreading it out at least some 2 miles or so, to find its course blocked by obstructive rocks and numerous islands, etc: consequently it is split up and forms a legion of rapids which throw themselves wantonly, tumbling here and there, over huge barriers, resulting finally in the now world-renowned and marvellouis falls of the Iguazú. These falls were knovm to the Jesuits, and they have left many written records of their beauty. Naturally the Guaraní Indians had passed down the wildest legends regarding the falls; and it is only within the last 20 years that they have been really opened up to the explorer, and latterly to the tourist.

My visit to this section of the Argentine Republic came at the instance of an old friend, Señor Lannusse, Governor of the Misiones territory; it was with him I made a good deal of my journey, and it is to him that I and my friends are indebted for much kindness. But first let us see exactly where we are going and what travelling has to be done.

My party is formed of: Mr. Charles White, 1st Secretary of the Amnerican Legation in the Argentine; Hr.Pollett Holt, General Manager of the Entre Ríos Railways; and Mr. J.H.Greene, solicitor of Rosario de Santa Fé, generally recognized as Tommie Greene. Others who come on the scene now and again are: Don Juan José Lannusse, the Governor of the Misiones territory, Señor Lafuente ("Colonel Fountain» ), Chief of Pólice of the Misiones territory; Commander Flores ("Admiral Flowers" ) the Sub-Prefect of Posadas Port; Mr. O.Budge, General Manager of the East Argentine Railway; Mr.R.Lyell, General Manager of the North East Argentine Railway; and Mr.Maclachlan, a friend of Budge's, who happened to go as far as Santo Tomé.

With a small map before us, we can see our first stage is by steamer from Buenos Aires to Concordia, up the river Uruguay, about 350 miles; thence we continué by one of my railway lines (The East Argentine) to Monte Caseros, about 100 miles; from Monte Caseros to Santa Tomé, by the North East Argentine Railway, 180 Miles; andd onwards by carriage to Posadas, which, calling at the Apostóles Colony on the way, makes that section 114 miles. At Posadas we have the larga Government steam launch, the "Salta", placed at my disposal, to take us to the mouth of the Iguazú, traversing the whole way the Upper Paraná waters, 200 miles, so that there are quite one thousand miles to travel before we actually reach our destination.

Little need be said about the first part of our journey, as far as the country is concerned, but something corresponds to the Misiones territory, to locate and explain its existence. Misiones is the most eastern área of the Argentine Republic: it stretches out into Brazil eastwards, and is bounded on the north and east by the Brazilian state of Paraná, the north being defined by the Iguazú river, and the east by the San Antonio-rniní and the Pepiry-guazú and Pepiry-miní rivers, while the Alto or Upper Uruguay river takes the south, the Argentine province of Corrientes a small part of the west and the greater part of the west the Upper Paraná, with Paraguay the whole way along on the other side of the river.

Misiones originally belonged to the Province of Corrientes and embraced some 4,000 square leagues, but the result of boundary disputes obliged Argentina to hand over something above 2,000 leagues to Brazil, that is to say, a block to the east of the territory; the área of Misiones to-day, therefore, is not over 1700 square leagues. Being National Territory it is ruled over by a Governor dependent from Buenos Aires...

....territory was originally the hotbed of Jesuit colonizatlon, as the old towns along the Upper Uruguay river testify to-day; and well up into Misiones (the Mission land) are wonderful ruins of the gigantic structures created by those marvellous pioneers of Civilization, the Jesuit Fathers. The Envoy of the Spanish Crown, fearing the strength of its South American colonias, caused the Jesuit expulsión, ruining and destroying completely what otherwise might to-day have been the evidence of perhaps one of the most astounding efforts of European directed Indian colonization. Misiones is a land "blessed with an amazing forest grovvth: dense foreste with huge trees in abundance, the commonest "being the cedar and other valuable woods: besides it is the home of the "Yerba", which gives the South American tea so largely used over one half of the continent. You can quite understand then that we looked forward with much interest and a certain amount of excitement to our journey: and with the preface I have given you, I will now commence my diary.

Sunday, 13th. november 1904.   Governor Lannusse, White, Greene and I all left Buenos Airee, from the South Dock, by the Mihanovich staeamer "Tritón" - a fine boat - built on the Clyde and with every accommodation: as there were over 200 passengers for the different ports of call, we were well accornpanied. Leaving at 11.a.m. we were passing the island of Martin Garcia at 4.p.m., and immediately afterwards entered the river Uruguay. Martin Garcia island is the Argentine Quarantine Station for all vessels to the Plate, and after passing it, northwards, the two riyers are defined: the Paraná to the north-west and the Uruguay to the north and north-east: we held our course up the Uruguay, bound for the port of Concordia: a number of large and small places were called at: Carmelo, Nueva Palmira and Fray Bentos, among others, on the Uruguayan coast : nothing could be lovelier than the weather we are taking with us, and a quiet restful day is passed, much to my satisfaction, as I came on board quite tired out and needed all that I am getting.

Monday, 14th.November 1904.  Passed an excellent night, and found another lovely day waiting for us. Lazed generally, with much enjoyment; we called at Paysandú ( on the Uruguayan side, Concepción, Colon, Yeruá Colony. etc., (on the Argentine side) and finally at 3 p.m. arrived at Concordia, where Holt and Budge met us, and after seeing us through the Custom House, we went to Budge's house at the railway teminus and had a meal and refreshing afternoon tea. Maclachlan joined us, and at 4.p.m. we left by the passenger train for Monte Caseros, Libres, and ultimately Santo Tomé.

Holt and Budge had their own cars on the train, so we were quite allright and well looked after. Gave up my own palatial sleeping compartment to the Governor, and fixed up the party in the most approved fashion. Budge gave us an excellent dinner in a comfortable dining car and at 9.p.m. we reached Monte Caseros, the terminal of the East - Argentine line and the junction with the North East Argentine. Here Lyll joined us, and, taking on his car, we left at 9.50 p.m. arriving at Libres, on the Alto Uruguay, in front of Uruguayana, on the Brazilian side, at l.a.m.

Tuesday November 15th 1904. Fortunately we remained in a siding until 8,30 a.m. when we continued our journey in the same perfect weather; pretty warrm, but clothing correspondingly light and scarce; passed the time away with breakfast, lunch and now and again "Bridge" till we arrived at Santo Tomé at 3 p.m. after passing through a very uninteresting section of the Corrientes Province. At Santo Tomé, the Chief of Pólice of the Misiones territory met us, and practically took charge of the Governor there and then. We found we were to leave the next morning at day-light, driving to the Apostóles Colony, by the diligence road as far as Playadito (16 leagues ) and thence 6 leagues to our that day's destination. We wandered up into the town of Santo Tomé towards evening, and admired the picturesque little place, founded centuries ago by the Jesuits on the Alto Uruguayan bank, with its beautiful orange groves, and remains shewing what an important centre must have existed in the days gone bye. Turned in early in our cars,conveniently placed in a siding clóse to the town, after a first-rate dinner which Lyell kindly provided in his saloon.

Group on arrival at Santo Tomé. All very tired after a hot night and days journey. From left to right they are: Lyell, Manager North East Argentine Ry.; MacLachlan, friend of Budges;  Follet Holt, Manager Entre Rios Rys; Tommie Greene; White, 1st Secretary North American Legation; Budge, Manager East Argentine Railway. All Grumpy and hot and wanting a drink badly.

A PAGINA 2

Este sitio es publicado por Carlos Mey -  - Martínez - Argentina

Direccion de e-mail: histarmar@fibertel.com.ar